Washer & Dryer Hookup Installation Cost
Adding a new washer hookup, the supply lines, drain, standpipe and outlet box, runs $350 – $2,000, driven mostly by how far the laundry sits from the nearest drain stack. Replacing a worn washing machine valve or box runs $150 – $400. The dryer side is electrical or gas, not plumbing. Here is the layout.
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| Job | Installed range | What drives it |
|---|---|---|
| New hookup near an existing stack | $350 – $700 | Short supply and drain runs to the box |
| New hookup, longer run | $700 – $1,400 | Supply and drain extended across the room |
| New hookup far from any stack | $1,200 – $2,000 | Opening walls, new vent and standpipe tie-in |
| Washing machine valve / box replacement | $150 – $400 | Worn or leaking hot and cold valves swapped |
| Drain pan and drain on an upper floor | $150 – $500 | Pan piped to a drain over finished space |
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A new hookup is priced by distance from the stack
Adding laundry where none existed means bringing four things together: hot and cold supply lines, a drain, a standpipe, and a recessed outlet box that holds the valves and the drain neatly in the wall. When the new spot sits close to an existing drain stack, the runs are short and the job lands around $350 – $700.
The farther the laundry is from that stack, the more the price climbs. A long run across a room is $700 – $1,400, and a spot far from any drain, requiring walls opened, a new vent, and a standpipe tied into the waste system, runs $1,200 – $2,000. Distance to the drain, not the box itself, is what sets the number. A plumber walks the route before quoting because that path decides everything.
The valve and box: a smaller, common job
If a hookup already exists and the valves are old, stuck, or weeping, replacing the washing machine valve or the whole outlet box runs $150 – $400. The recessed box holds the hot and cold shutoffs and the drain receptacle, and the valves are the parts most likely to fail, especially old multi-turn gate valves that no longer close fully.
Upgrading to a single-lever box that shuts both supplies at once is a worthwhile move during a valve replacement: one flip closes hot and cold, which makes it easy to shut the water off when the machine is idle. That habit, plus braided hoses, is low-cost insurance against the failure mode that floods laundry rooms.
Burst-hose prevention: braided lines
A washing machine sits under full house pressure every minute the supply valves are open, and the old black rubber fill hoses are the classic failure point. When one lets go, it dumps water at full flow until someone notices, which is how a $20 hose becomes a five-figure flood. Replacing rubber hoses with braided stainless steel lines is the single most effective prevention there is.
Pair the braided hoses with a single-lever box and the habit of closing the valves when you are away for more than a day. If you have an old standpipe or a drain that is slow, our guide to a washing machine that will not drain covers the drain side, since a clogged standpipe causes its own overflow separate from a supply burst.
Upper floors need a pan and a drain
A washer over finished living space changes the calculus. A leak or an overflow on a second-floor laundry does not stop at the floor; it lands in the ceiling below. Code in many areas requires a drain pan under the machine, piped to a drain, so a slow leak or an overflow has somewhere to go besides the subfloor: $150 – $500 added to the job.
The pan does not prevent the leak; it buys you time and routes the water safely while you are out. On an upper floor, it is not optional insurance, it is the difference between a wet pan and a ruined ceiling. A standpipe that drains slowly is the other upper-floor risk, since a backed-up standpipe overflows onto the same vulnerable floor.
The dryer side is electrical or gas
A dryer is not a plumbing connection. An electric dryer needs a 240-volt outlet, which is an electrician's job if one is not already present, and every dryer needs a vent duct run to the outside. Neither of those rides on the washer plumbing quote, so a true "washer and dryer hookup" can involve a plumber and an electrician.
A gas dryer adds a gas line to the picture, and that is its own scope. Running or extending a gas line to reach a dryer is priced separately, and our gas line installation cost page covers what that run involves. When you budget a full laundry hookup, count the washer plumbing, the dryer power or gas, and the vent as three distinct line items rather than one.
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