Gas Line Installation Cost: New Runs, Stoves & Extensions
New gas line work runs about $20 – $30 per linear foot installed, which puts a typical stove or range run at $300 – $1,300 and a short branch for a new appliance at $350 – $800. The pipe is cheap; the labor, permit, pressure test and connection to your meter set the price. This is licensed-only work, and here is how the numbers break down.
Talk through this project
Describe the job, get matched with a local licensed pro on the line.
(855) 000-0000New installs, replacements & repairs · No obligation
| Job | Installed range | What it covers |
|---|---|---|
| Per linear foot (installed) | $20 – $30 | Pipe, fittings and labor for a straight run |
| Run a line to a stove or range | $300 – $1,300 | Distance from the existing manifold drives it |
| New appliance branch (typical) | $350 – $800 | Dryer, water heater, fireplace, cooktop |
| Outdoor line (grill, fire pit, generator) | $400 – $1,500 | Longer runs, trenching adds cost |
| Cap an abandoned line | $75 – $250 | Removing an old appliance safely |
| Item | Range | When it applies |
|---|---|---|
| Permit + pressure test | $75 – $300 | Required for new and extended lines |
| Black iron pipe | $3 – $8 / ft (material) | Traditional, threaded, labor-heavy |
| CSST (flexible) | $4 – $10 / ft (material) | Faster to route, needs proper bonding |
| Sediment trap + shutoff | $40 – $120 | Code item at each appliance |
| Meter upgrade | Utility-set | Higher demand may need a larger meter |
| Wall or slab access | $150 – $600 | Opening finished surfaces to route pipe |
Want a real number instead of a range?
Calls are answered around the clock and routed to a licensed plumbing pro serving your area.
Call & describe the job
Tell us what you need: a new install, a replacement, or something that started leaking.
Get matched on the line
You are connected with a local licensed plumbing pro who serves your area.
Compare your numbers
Use the ranges on this page to sanity-check the quote before you commit.
Why gas work is priced by the foot and by the appliance
Two numbers drive almost every gas quote: how far the new pipe has to travel from the existing supply, and how many appliances it feeds. The installed per-foot figure of $20 – $30 already folds in pipe, fittings, hangers and labor, so a 15-foot run to a kitchen range lands around $300 – $450 in pipe terms before permit and connection work pushes the total into the $300 – $1,300 band.
A new appliance branch (a dryer, a fireplace, a tankless water heater) usually runs $350 – $800 because it taps an existing manifold nearby and the runs are short. The cost climbs when the line has to cross the house, drop through a slab, or feed a high-demand appliance that strains the meter, since the pipe diameter has to grow with the load and distance, as our gas line sizing chart lays out. When a tankless unit is the appliance, the gas branch is often the same line item priced on our tankless water heater cost page.
Black iron vs CSST: what your installer will use
Black iron pipe is the traditional material: rigid, threaded section by section, and slow to install, which is why a black-iron run carries more labor. It is robust and inspectors know it well.
CSST (corrugated stainless steel tubing) is the flexible yellow or black-jacketed tubing that snakes through framing like wire, cutting routing time on long or awkward runs. It costs a little more per foot in material but often saves on labor. The catch is bonding: CSST must be electrically bonded to the grounding system, and a missed bond is a common inspection failure. Either material is code-compliant when installed correctly; the choice usually comes down to the route and the installer.
Permits, pressure tests and the meter
New and extended gas lines are permitted work in nearly every jurisdiction. The permit and the mandatory pressure test together run $75 – $300: the installer pressurizes the new pipe, isolates it, and proves it holds before any appliance is connected. That test is what separates a safe line from a gamble, and it is why this is never a weekend DIY job.
Your meter sets a ceiling on total demand. Adding a high-BTU appliance (a tankless heater, a second furnace, a pool heater) can push the house past what the existing meter delivers, and only the utility can swap it. That upgrade is set by the utility, not your plumber, and it is usually no charge for capacity but can add lead time. A licensed installer sizes the whole system and flags a meter limit before the pipe goes in.
Licensed-only work, and why that protects you
Gas piping is one of the few plumbing tasks with essentially no safe DIY tier. A loose joint or an undersized line does not announce itself the way a water leak does: it leaks an odorless-until-scented fuel into your home. Every state requires a licensed plumber or gas fitter to install, extend or modify gas piping, and the permit ties the work to an inspection.
If you ever smell gas after work like this, treat it as an evacuation, not a service call: our guide to a gas smell in the house walks the drill. And when an existing line is the problem rather than a new run, pricing moves to our gas leak repair cost breakdown.
Capping a line and other small jobs
Removing a gas appliance leaves a live stub that has to be capped properly, not just shut off at the valve. Capping an abandoned line runs $75 – $250 depending on access, and it includes a leak check at the cap. People discover the need when they switch a gas range for electric or pull out an old wall furnace.
Adding a sediment trap and a dedicated shutoff at an existing appliance is another small-ticket item, $40 – $120, that inspectors look for. If your line predates current code, an installer doing other work will often bring these up to standard while the system is open.
Ready to get it handled?
One call, no obligation. Describe the job and compare the quote against the ranges above.